Nina Ricci Dresses 2012

NINA RICCI — Founded in Paris in 1932 Nina Ricci today is designed by Peter Copping. Having worked with Christian Lacroix, Sonia Rykiel and Louis Vuitton, Copping is well equipped for his artistic director position. The Nina Ricci woman is still sensual and exuberant with an appreciation of luxury details under Copping’s careful guide.

“Nostalgia for the present” was how Peter Copping called his collection, both during a preview and at the top of his show notes. Copping explained, this collection tell us about a little girl playing dress up, or “a wardrobe for the present, seen through the eyes of the young, experimenting with their mother’s and grandmother’s wardrobe.”

It involved many of the ideas that are streaming through the season: a touch of the bourgeois, a sense of the oversize, and the idea of how to make someone being covered up but also result in something provocative. Much of it comes down to just how sophisticated he is at manipulating luxurious fabric in a complex, but lightly casual, way. His girl, a tousle-haired beauty, seems to have spontaneously customized her fur collars, sloppily throwing them on coats to lay asymmetrically across her shoulders, not caring if linings show on the outside of tweed jackets, and enjoying the pretty possibilities of slips and lacy underthings as going-out wear. Some of the pieces she puts on seem too big—jet embroidery might dangle from her overlong sleeves; some of her dresses hang cutely loose—and she comes from a good family, this one. Heirloom jewelry is also within her grasp: diamonds draped naughtily around her neck and festooned as ankle straps around her shoes.

The skill here lies in Copping’s light, modern combinations of “old” materials, and his pitch-perfect color sense in his choice of pinks, lavenders, and burgundys. And that’s not to mention his many draped and embroidered treatments of black, in varying degrees of transparency. It was a personal, brilliant tour-de-force of that offhand chic that makes Paris a mecca for all that is great about fashion.

Nina Ricci dress Nina Ricci Dresses 2012

It gave Copping a charming new angle through which to linger on his beloved lingerie and living-doll look, built on pinks and purples, embroideries, lace, tweeds and tailoring. There were proper lady moments, like a black cashmere coat darted at the small of the back and with a blush fox collar, and playful deconstruction, like a slipdress that looked like a classic negligee at the top with a nubby ivory tweed skirt, and an exceptional webby, patchwork knit sweater worn with a pencil skirt.

nina ricci fall collection Nina Ricci Dresses 2012

Nina Ricci Collection Nina Ricci Dresses 2012

That the clothes were exquisite in their naïve femininity was almost a given, but the seductive edge that coursed throughout came as an enticing surprise. Copping devoted a lot of yardage to black — sheer tulle, lace and see-through cutouts — for one thing. And since grown-up clothes don’t usually fit little kids, the proportions were artfully sized up, so loose tops grazed the body, fur stoles fell off the shoulders and sleeves dangled below the hands. This Nina Ricci Fall Collection was an adult look that little girls will love to grow into.

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